Qipao vs Cheongsam: What's the Difference?

Many people use "qipao" and "cheongsam" interchangeably — and in most contexts, they're correct. But the two terms have distinct origins and subtle differences worth understanding.

Same Dress, Different Language

Qipao (旗袍) is the Mandarin Chinese name, literally meaning "banner dress." The term refers to the Manchu rulers (who were organized into "banners") during the Qing Dynasty (1644-1912). The original Manchu changpao was a loose, straight-cut robe worn by both men and women.

Cheongsam (长衫) is the Cantonese pronunciation of the same characters. It became the international name for the dress because the style was popularized in Hong Kong and Shanghai, where Cantonese was widely spoken. Western fashion magazines adopted "cheongsam" in the 1950s and 1960s.

Style Evolution

The dress that we know today as qipao/cheongsam is actually a 20th-century invention:

• Pre-1920s: Loose, A-line robe — no waist definition, long sleeves, modest cut
• 1920s-1930s Shanghai: The modern qipao emerged. Shanghai tailors added waist darts, shortened sleeves, raised hemlines, and introduced form-fitting silhouettes. This was the "golden age" of qipao.
• 1950s-1960s Hong Kong: Further Westernized with zippers, darts, and sleeveless options. The cheongsam became a glamorous evening dress.
• Modern day: Both terms are used globally for the same garment, though "qipao" is more common in academic and historical contexts, while "cheongsam" is still used in fashion and retail in Hong Kong and international markets.

Regional Differences

While "qipao" and "cheongsam" refer to the same garment, regional styles vary:

• Shanghai style: More fitted, higher slits, bolder colors. Influenced by Western fashion.
• Hong Kong style: Often shorter (above knee), lighter fabrics, more practical for tropical climate. Uses zippers more frequently.
• Beijing style: Generally more conservative, longer length, traditional patterns. Closer to the original Qing Dynasty inspiration.
• Suzhou style: Famous for embroidery quality. Suzhou qipao features the finest hand-embroidered details.

Which Term Should You Use?

In English, both terms are correct. "Qipao" is becoming more common globally. "Cheongsam" is still the standard term in the fashion industry, especially for evening wear. At China-Cart.com, we use both terms interchangeably because our customers search for both.